Biodynamisk landbrug hvor familiens 600 hektar store og fredede skov danner ramme om 80 hektar vinmarker i Alta Penedés i 700 meter over havets overflade. Skovområdet er fredet og de første tegn på civilisation sender spor 2000 år tilbage i tiden, hvor vi bla. så en lerovn. I skoven finder familien leret til de amphoraer der bruges til vinfremstilling, som man ligeledes har fundet rester af på stedet. Det er et unikt område og markerne ligger i mikroklimatiske områder, der er en hver biodynamikers drøm at kunne arbejde med. Helt fantastisk at opleve. Se fotos på vores side. Andrew Jefford fra magasinet Decanter skriver her: “Something is changing. The evidence is probably lying quietly in cellars around the world. Here, though, is a little homage to Catalonia, since that was where I recently saw it at first hand for myself (…). I was in Penedes to run a couple of tasting seminars for the Vilafranca-based ‘Wine Aspects’ programme – and that gave me the chance to dosome local tasting. Four visits and, as much by coincidence as design, each winery turned out to grow its fruit in either an organic or a biodynamic manner. Not only that, but three of them were making either natural wines or amphora wines, or both – not loudly or exclusively, but simply as part of a range where quality and terroir expression was the goal. No one gave me an ideological rant, or tried to pass off deviance as purity; indeed they all insisted on cleanliness and freshness as an ideal. ‘It’s very important to us that we don’t have to make excuses or explanations for our natural wines,’ said Jordi Fernandez Davi of Pares Balta. ‘The comment we like most about them is “If you hadn’t told me, I wouldn’t have known (…)”. It wasn’t the wildlife which thrilled at Pares Balta so much as the archaeology. A pit in which amphorae were fired some 2,300 years ago has been unearthed in some of the forest land owned by the Cusine family which runs Pares Balta; we gazed at it in unfeigned reverence as the Catalan sunshine coaxed the pines into scent around us. ‘Two years ago we had no idea that this was here,’ remembered Jordi Fernandez Davi. ‘When we found this pit it was like a message. We said “We have to try making wine in these again.”‘ The team then discovered that a vein of clay a short distance away in the forest was perfect for making amphorae; perhaps that was why the kiln had been there in the first place. To craft wine in a vessel made from your own clay perfectly suits the Pares Balta biodynamic philosophy; this is one of those rare BD domains which makes all its own preparations, including from the horsetail which grows wild on the property. The Pares Baltawines I tasted with Jordi were limpid and expressive, too, notably the single-vineyard 2012 Electio Xarel-lo produced from 90 year old vines (liquified dust, silence and sunlight) and the 2012 Hisenda Miret Garnacha (light, brisk, fresh, pert, taut). The 2014 sulphur-free Amphora Xarel-lo is (…) not deviant, certainly, but method – those tell-tale wheat-beer notes – still has the upper hand over variety and place in its sensorial profile. In this case I think I would have known, but I look forward to future versions.”